Varietals - Trebbiano

Trebbiano's Reach

Trebbiano is one of the largest white grape crops in all of Italy.  Light and vaguely fruity, its most remarkable trait may be that it grows all over the place, but it forms the basis for many of Italy's best-known white wines: Orvieto, Frascati, Galestro, and Est! Est!! Est!!!

Orvieto

Orvieto is the wine that put Umbria on the wine map. Light, soft, simple, and affordable, Orvieto seems designed for pasta salads and summertime picnics. Antinori's versions pretty much define the region's style, and run $10 to $15.

Frascati

Frascati is a refreshing white wine, crisp and light with a slight natural sweetness.  This fantastic wine, popular in Rome, is a fantastic option for casual meals and can be purchased for less than $15 per bottle.  Great options include Fontana Candida and Castel de Paolis.

Galestro

A fair amount of Trebbiano used to go into Chianti's red wines, but as producers became more quality-conscious in the last few decades, they've cut back and designed this white wine in the late 1970s to use it up. Named for the local soils, Galestro can be a pleasant, lightly fruity aperitif wine. Antinori, Frescobaldi, and Ruffino have the corner on the market here.

Est!Est!!Est!!!di Montefiascone

You've got to love a wine with such a ridiculous name, especially considering it supposedly descended from twelfth-century graffiti. The wine is as light-hearted as its name sounds, bright, clean, savory, and refreshing, and $10 or less.

Garganega

Most people have never heard of Garganega but it is a component in more familiar Soave, a white that varies from disappointingly bland to richly creamy with almond paste-like flavors. Good examples include Anselmi, Gini, Inama, and Pieropan, which should run $30 or less.

Campania's Ancient Trio

Campania's wines were some of the most revered in the ancient world. Lost to history for centuries, Campania's ancient grapes are undergoing a renaissance spurred by a few dedicated vintners such as Feudi di San Gregorio, Mastroberardino, and Terradora.

Falanghina is thought to be the grape on which the ancients based the brew they called Falernum.  It makes unusual white wines full of smoky, nutty flavors kept refreshed by lemony acidity. Many examples are labeled by the name of the grape; others can be found under the DOC Falerno di Massica. Most run $11 to $16.

Another ancient Roman grape, Fiano makes light, dry whites fragrant with smoky mineral and lemon pith notes. Its most esteemed version is Fiano di Avellino, grown in the hilly region of Avellino. Good versions run $11 to $18; a few reserve bottlings hit $30.

Greco grows all over southern Italy, but its best version comes from Greco di Tufo, a crisp, lemon-scented wine with a lot of savory minerality. Dry and refreshing, it makes a great match to fried fish and other richer fish dishes. It runs $9 to $25.

These excellent wines showcase the variety of styles available from the Trebbiano grape.  This widely planted vine offers the light, crisp character familiar in so many Italian white wines.

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