Varietals - Malbec and Cabernet Franc

Malbec and Cabernet Franc are two of the five varietals that make up the classic balances characteristic of the fantastic wines of France’s Bordeaux region.  Centuries of cultivation, even with the interruption that the phylloxera invasion caused, led to the mastery of knowing the ideal conditions for growth for both of these ancient grapes.  The invasion may have caused the near extinction of their sister varietal, Carménère, but both Malbec and Cabernet Franc were replanted extensively after the insects did their damage.

For the last few generations or so growers and vintners alike in the New World have taken that previously acquired knowledge and used it to dramatically increase the plantings of both of these varietals in their local regions, even after the “vine pull” in Argentina.  Malbec and Cabernet Franc are now thriving varietals in a diverse range of growing regions that offer the conditions favorable to these venerable grapes.  From Argentina to the Napa Valley, harvests continue to grow.

Development of wines that are either predominantly or entirely made from these former backup players are broadening the range of what winemakers are able to do with these grapes.  They are the third and fourth most grown grape in Bordeaux, behind Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  The slight differences in terroir from their original growing areas allow the resulting wines to take on slightly different characteristics than they exhibit in their French home.

Malbec is planted nearly everywhere in the world in small quantities, but reaches its zenith in Argentina.  With a body and balance of tannins that rest between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot the grape produces wines that are inky and plumy and age significantly better than their French counterparts.  The grapes are left on the vine longer and result in wines that pair with food similarly to New World Merlots in general, but with a touch more heat and tannin.  If you would normally drink a Merlot or a right bank Bordeaux with a certain dish, especially lamb or beef try a Malbec from Argentina for a wonderful change of pace.

Cabernet Franc has been around so long that DNA studies show it is actually one of the ancestors of Cabernet Sauvignon.  It has a much higher ability to ripen reliably than many other red varietals so is less given to having off years.  Like Malbec, it is less tannic than Cabernet Sauvignon and has a softer mouth feel.  It needs a longer ripening time than its offspring as well or the resulting wine will have a greenness that is not appealing.  The wines tend to have flavors of raspberries, blueberries, plum and even violets.  The wines work wonderfully with poultry dishes, pork and pasta dishes.  If you lean towards the adventurous duck and rabbit are great choices as well, especially if there are berries in the preparation.  It is not as easy to find as many wines, but when you do find it, buy it.  It is a wonderful new experience.

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