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Venerable Bordeaux

By  Dynise Basore  12/20/2009 04:26
Venerable Bordeaux

For those uninitiated into the history and composition of French wines and the foods that work best for them, red Bordeaux wines can be a challenge at first.  If you had been raised in France, drinking watered down wine with your dinner from the time you were past using a sippy cup it would be second nature.  For the other 98% of the world it is actually not difficult, but the French and European Union labeling laws offer no clues to the neophyte.

For a quick little background on one of the oldest wine growing regions in the world the varietals used are a good place to start.  The light bulb goes on immediately when you see these.  Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot are the predominant grapes grown.  European Union laws are different on labeling because everyone already “knows” what grapes grow where because they have been growing the same grapes in those regions for hundreds if not thousands of years.

The first four varietals are the most predominantly used, with Petite Verdot generally only used in concentrations of 1-2% in most wines.  The ancient Merlot is quite well-respected here and despite the dip in sales it experienced after the release of “Sideways” in the United States it is a wonderful grape and can make outstanding wines.  The primary distinction between the 57 appellations of the Bordeaux region is whether the wines are “left bank” or  “right bank.”  Those that are grown on the left bank of the Garonne have Cabernet Sauvignon as the predominant varietal with varying percentages of the other grapes.  The right bank wines have Merlot as the highest concentration in their blends, and Merlot actually is the most grown grape in the entire Bordeaux region.

Left bank Bordeaux is famous for aging incredibly well, more so than any other wines.  The only downside to this is that the wines do not drink as well when they are young.  A strong sense of patience is required if you buy the wines when they are first released, very strong.  They will generally be at their peak in drinkability between the 10-20 year mark.  They make incredible combinations when paired with strong meat and game.  Beef, lamb, venison, duck and other richly flavored meats will set off a 15 year old Bordeaux perfectly.

The Merlot predominant right bank Bordeaux wines also age extremely well, and like their Cabernet rich cousins increase in their beauty with a good amount of aging time, but not as much time is necessary.  These wines will work well with virtually all the same meats as the more tannic left bank wines.  Additionally, the slightly softer tannins and increase amount of fruit forwardness will allow them to work well with richer pork dishes and also the darkest fish, such as tuna and salmon.  This is especially true if earthy flavors are part of the dish, such as mushrooms or truffles.

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